Blog

  • The Cross Axes and Quiet Power: The Women of the Tenement.

    The Cross Axes and Quiet Power: The Women of the Tenement.

    This blog began as an exploration of whether Bridge Street in Great Harwood ever had a bridge. However, it soon diverged into the history of the Cross Axes pub and the lives of several women whose stories have been overshadowed by the men they married. A former tutor once advised my group to “Beware tangents!” but sometimes, these diversions lead to the most interesting discoveries, as was the case here.

    The two sides of Bridge Street in 1890s.
    https://maps.nls.uk/
    ‘Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of Scotland

    Bridge Street has a unique layout, with two sides separated by a lower-level street and connected only by a series of steps. For years, there has been speculation that the street was named for a planned bridge to connect the two sides. However, the term “bridge” was associated with the area long before Bridge Street was constructed around 1866. In that year, a lease was granted for the houses on the southwestern side of the street, including numbers 2-10 and a joiner’s shop. These were the earliest buildings. Additional leases for numbers 3 and 5-9 were granted in 1897 and 1898, respectively.

    In 1782, a lease for land at Higher Butts on Delph Road described the location as being near buildings called the Bridges. These structures were located near the current steps to Bridge Street. Causeway Brook, now culverted, flows down Delph Road, and it is possible that a small bridge once existed to allow access from the farm south of the stream to the lands north of the brook. However, there is no evidence for this.

    Plan showing part of the Lower Town of Great Harwood c. 1796

    The above town plan from around 1796 shows Causeway Brook flowing down Delph Road, across Town Gate, and into Queen Street. There is no indication of a bridge, raising questions about how people and carts crossed the stream. Possible crossing methods include a ford, stepping stones, or a small clapper-style bridge. The first detailed map of the town, the Ordnance Survey map from 1844, shows that the stream had by now been culverted from Delph Road down the length of Queen Street.

    Map of Great Harwood 1844.
    https://maps.nls.uk/
    ‘Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of Scotland

    The name Bridge, or Brigg, appears in the town’s parish registers from 1603. One notable individual was Matthew Bridge, who seems to have moved to the town from Whalley and who was a butcher and innkeeper in the town in 1664. His son William was also a butcher, and it is likely he was also an innkeeper although the records that might show this have not survived.

    William Bridge had six children: Martha married Richard Standing, a butcher; Margery may have married a John Broadley; Grace doesn’t appear in records after her baptism; Matthew appears not to have married; Mary and Jennet married late in life and it seems these last three children stayed close to home. It was common for women to run inns while men held the licenses, Matthew and William Bridge were butchers, and their wives likely managed the inn and after their parents’ deaths, Mary and Jennet may have run the inn together, with Matthew as the licensee, The poor survival of alehouse records between 1700 and 1740 means we cannot confirm if Matthew was the licensee of the inn, however in 1740 Matthew was paid for ‘rent’ by the overseer of the poor for ‘Duckworth’, showing that he was probably in the business of providing hospitality; over the years other similar payments were made to innkeepers.

    When their father died in 1734, neither Mary nor Jennet was married. Mary was about forty, and Jennet was thirty-eight. In 1740, Jennet married John Calvert, who was twenty years her junior. Twelve years later, in 1752, Mary married John Hoyle of Tottleworth Lee in Rishton; she was now fifty eight and he was aged between twenty-eight and thirty-two.  William Bridge, the brother, had died in 1751, and it may have become necessary for a man to acquire the inn’s license.

    In an era when women often ran inns while men held the licenses, marriages of convenience may have been arranged. A 1754 document shows John Hoyle as the tenant of Matthew Bridge’s tenement, with Mary as a life tenant, and John Calvert as the tenant of Bridge’s cottage, with Jennet as a life tenant and his nephew Jonathan Calvert. Only one other woman, Jane Giles, appears in the list.

    From 1753, John Hoyle was listed as the innkeeper. When the Nowells sold the tenement in 1770, John Hoyle bought it, and it was named Matthew Bridge’s tenement on the sale sheet. In 1767, John Hoyle installed Jonathan Calvert, cousin of Jennet’s husband John Calvert, as the innkeeper. By this time, Mary Bridge was about 73 years old and possibly infirm, dying two years later.

    It is clear that the building we now know as the Cross Axes was either built or extensively rebuilt in the late eighteenth century and perhaps this was done when John Hoyle bought the tenement.

    Jonathan Calvert married Ann Cross in 1759. Ann died in April 1788, and in October that year, their daughter Ann married John Aspinall, who was listed as the licensee from 1789 to 1795. Jonathan Calvert lived until 1823, leaving behind numerous descendants and was the sexton of Altham Church for many years. It is unclear what happened to his daughter Ann and her husband John after 1795, but from 1796, Lawrence Rushton was the licensee. John Hoyle had remarried, and his daughter Ellen, by his second wife Margaret Dugdale, married Lawrence Rushton in 1794.

    Memorial card for Jonathan Calvert 1823

    Bridge’s Cottage was still for sale in 1771, with John Calvert listed as the tenant. He died in 1792, leaving his estate to his brother Thomas and nephew Jonathan, but it is unclear if this included the cottage.

    As for the Cross Axes, Lawrence Rushton was listed in Baines Directory in 1825 as “victualler and butcher of Cross Axes,” the first recorded use of the name. Lawrence Rushton was buried on March 30, 1841, and from that time, the pub was run by tenants rather than family members. The Hoyles retained ownership until the 20th century.

    These notes may explain how Bridge Street and the Cross Axes got their names. Bridge Street likely derived its name from Bridge’s Cottage, and the Cross Axes may have been named after Ann Cross, one of the women who ran the inn. And the notes seem clearly to show that it is evident that these women determined the start and end of tenancies at the inn.They were controlling and managing the running of the inn – their husbands the name on the license, and often busy with their own occupations, butcher, weaver or sexton. When the women retired or died then new tenants were found, even when the husband was still alive and well.

    The Women of the Cross Axes

    Unknown wife of Matthew Bridge

    Elizabeth Cellers – wife of William Bridge

    Mary Bridge –  daughter of William, wife of John Hoyle

    Ann Cross – wife of Jonathan Calvert

    Ann Calvert – daughter of Jonathan, wife of John Aspinall

    Ellen Hoyle – daughter of John Hoyle, wife of Lawrence Rushton

  • A walk over Dean Clough on a sunny day in May.

    A walk over Dean Clough on a sunny day in May.

    A short while ago there was a discussion online about ancestral memory, whether we have inexplicable feelings of belonging when we visit a place that has links to our ancestors. I’m not sure if it is an ancestral memory of some kind, but Dean Clough in Great Harwood is somewhere to which I do feel drawn and on days like today the beauty of it can nearly make me weep.

    Looking over Dean Clough from the now gone Cow Hey
    Taken from Blackburn Old Road, and where Cow Hey Farm used to be, looking towards the fells of Bowland.

    During the lockdowns in the pandemic Dean Clough became ‘the’ place for many in the town for their daily walk, and I was always amazed by the very many people who had lived in the town for years and yet for whom the area was a total surprise. Every day there were new photos on social media, at all times of day and in all weather.

    path from Cow Hey to now gone School Lands
    The road that led from Cow Hey to School Lands Farm.

    As a child my parents took me on walks over the Nab and up to the pines (which were little baby pines all those years ago…) so I am familiar with the area, but little did I know how much my family history is embedded into the farms and cottages, many of which are now gone. When I began to research my roots it wasn’t long before I found links to the many farms that dotted the area, before they were abandoned after the reservoir was built in the late nineteenth century.

    View at the top of the moor
    Turning to the right to walk down towards the reservoir, still with views of the fells in the far distance.

    The Smalleys were tenants of Smalley Thorn, Fearley Hey and Smithy Cote, all now gone since the reservoir was built. The Walmsleys were at Bostons, which is where my 2nd great grandfather was born, his mother being a Walmsley from Bostons. Richard Walmsley and his wife Elizabeth were living at Riley Hey in later life. Richard’s mother was a Clayton, which is probably why his two older brothers were born at Bowley, the Clayton farms now also demolished.

    It does make me wonder how far back my roots in this particular area of the town might go. Although a lot of the land in Dean Clough was moor and waste until the eighteenth century, parts of it were ‘anciently enclosed’, and there are documents from the early fourteenth century excluding certain acres on the moor from ‘intercommoning’ by Billington and Great Harwood. These were Roulegh Clough (Riley Hey), Fayrehurst (Fearly Hey) and Whitekar. So people were agriculturally active in the area, but I may never know how far back my roots here lie because documents for anyone except the landowning elite are sparse before the eighteenth century.

    Reservoir Pendle and Bowley
    This is the view that always makes me take a deep breath in wonder, no matter the season. Pendle in the distance, with Bowley just peeping up between it and the pines on the right.

    I often wonder how my Calvert ancestors felt on leaving Laneside, but they were probably very happy by then to abandon what would seem a very poor cottage for a nice, new terraced house in the town.

    There are a lot of things to add to the site, not least a page about Dean Clough, the farms and families who farmed there, but today I thought this sunny Great Harwood day, with hawthorn in full bloom, was worth sharing for my first blog.